Little Bear Peak
Little Bear Peak, situated in the Sangre de Cristo Range of the Southern Rockies, is a challenging and prominent 14,037-foot (4,278 m) peak in Colorado known for its steep and exposed terrain. It is considered among the most difficult of Colorado’s 14ers, demanding significant mountaineering skills and experience. The peak’s name originates from the resemblance of a bear shape in its profile.
History
The earliest recorded ascents of Little Bear Peak occurred in the late 19th century, coinciding with the broader exploration and mapping of the Colorado mountains. Early explorers and surveyors documented the peak, but detailed records of the very first climb are scarce. The area surrounding Little Bear Peak, like much of the Sangre de Cristo Range, saw activity related to mining during the late 1800s, though Little Bear itself was not a primary mining location. The challenging nature of the peak likely limited extensive activity on its slopes. [1]
Over time, Little Bear Peak transitioned from a point of exploration and resource assessment to a destination for experienced mountaineers. The peak’s reputation for difficulty grew as climbers attempted its routes, and stories of challenging conditions and required skills became commonplace within the climbing community. The late 20th and early 21st centuries have seen increased attention to safety and responsible climbing practices on Little Bear, with organizations and guides emphasizing the need for preparation and awareness of the mountain’s hazards. The peak continues to attract climbers seeking a significant mountaineering challenge.
Geography
Little Bear Peak is located in the Mosca Pass area of the Sangre de Cristo Range, within the San Isabel National Forest. It is situated approximately 6 miles (9.7 km) southwest of the town of Crestone, Colorado. The peak is part of the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness, an area designated for its rugged beauty and opportunities for backcountry recreation. Little Bear is closely associated with Blanca Peak, with the two peaks sharing a saddle and often being climbed together as a challenging two-peak ascent. [2]
The geological composition of Little Bear Peak is primarily Precambrian granite and gneiss, typical of the Sangre de Cristo Range. The peak’s steep faces and exposed ridges are a result of glacial erosion and weathering over millennia. The standard route, known as the Hourglass, features a narrow, steep couloir that presents a significant obstacle for climbers. The surrounding terrain is characterized by alpine tundra, rocky slopes, and sparse vegetation. The elevation and geographic isolation contribute to a harsh alpine climate with unpredictable weather patterns.
Attractions
While Little Bear Peak itself is the primary attraction for experienced mountaineers, the surrounding area offers a variety of recreational opportunities. The nearby town of Crestone serves as a base for climbers and outdoor enthusiasts, providing lodging, supplies, and access to other trails and peaks. Mosca Pass, located between Blanca Peak and Little Bear Peak, is a popular starting point for ascents of both mountains and offers scenic views of the surrounding landscape. [3]
The Crestone Needle, another prominent peak in the area, is a popular destination for technical climbers. Numerous hiking trails wind through the surrounding mountains, offering opportunities for day hikes and backpacking trips. The area is also known for its dark night skies, making it a desirable location for stargazing. The San Isabel National Forest provides opportunities for camping, fishing, and wildlife viewing. The overall appeal of the region lies in its rugged beauty and the challenge it presents to those seeking outdoor adventure.
Getting There
Access to Little Bear Peak is typically gained via the town of Crestone, Colorado. From Denver, the drive to Crestone is approximately 240 miles (386 km) and takes around 4-5 hours, depending on traffic and road conditions. The primary route involves taking US-285 South to Poncha Springs, then turning onto Colorado State Highway 17 South towards Crestone. The road to the trailhead is partially unpaved and may require a high-clearance vehicle, particularly during inclement weather. [4]
The trailhead for Little Bear Peak is located near the end of the Como Road, off of Highway 17. Parking at the trailhead can be limited, especially during peak climbing season. Climbers should arrive early to secure a parking spot. From the trailhead, the standard route to Little Bear Peak involves a hike to Mosca Pass, followed by the challenging ascent of the Hourglass couloir. It is essential to be prepared for a long and strenuous hike, with significant elevation gain. Proper planning, including checking weather conditions and informing someone of your itinerary, is crucial for a safe and successful climb.
Safety Considerations
Little Bear Peak is considered a dangerous climb, even for experienced mountaineers. The Hourglass couloir is prone to rockfall, and the steep terrain presents a high risk of falls. Weather conditions can change rapidly in the mountains, and climbers should be prepared for sudden storms, including lightning and hail. Altitude sickness is also a concern, as the peak’s elevation exceeds 14,000 feet (4,267 m). [5]
Climbers should carry appropriate gear, including helmets, sturdy boots, ice axes, crampons, and layers of clothing. It is recommended to have experience with self-arrest techniques and to be proficient in using navigation tools, such as maps and compasses. Checking the avalanche forecast is essential, particularly during the winter and spring months. Climbing with a partner is strongly advised, and it is important to communicate effectively and make conservative decisions. Rescue services may be limited in the remote areas surrounding Little Bear Peak, so self-reliance is paramount.
Notable Climbing Routes
The most common route to ascend Little Bear Peak is the “Hourglass” route, named for the narrow, steep couloir that climbers must navigate. This route is graded as Class 3, with sections requiring scrambling and exposure. The Hourglass presents a significant challenge due to loose rock and the potential for rockfall. Another route, the Northwest Ridge, is a more technical climb, graded as Class 4, requiring roped climbing and specialized equipment. [6]
Less frequently climbed routes include the Dihedral and the East Slopes. These routes are generally more difficult and require advanced mountaineering skills. The combination of Little Bear Peak and Blanca Peak is a popular, though extremely strenuous, undertaking for experienced climbers. This traverse involves ascending both peaks in a single push, requiring significant endurance and technical ability. Regardless of the chosen route, climbers should be prepared for a challenging and demanding ascent.